Samantha LiVigni
Mr. Parsons
College Writing II
9 December 2010
Fashion’s Carbon Footprint
It may not be well-known by the general public, but the fashion industry is leaving behind a giant carbon footprint. Many people do not consider the harmful chemicals, immense use of natural resources, and the amounts of energy put into the manufacturing of textiles produced for clothing. The production processes used by the textile manufacturers have been causing great harm to the environment for decades. While many fashion labels in the world today consider themselves innovative and pioneering, there is much to be done about the environmental issues caused by the fashion industry. Decreasing the negative effect the manufacturing and producing of fabric for clothing has been brought to the attention of many fashion companies. The only industry that creates a larger carbon footprint on the earth is the agricultural industry. There is a growing effort to produce environmentally friendly textiles to be used in the fashion world.
Let’s begin with the cotton problem. Cotton is the most widely used fiber in the making of fabric. When cotton is grown conventionally it sucks up a vast amount of water from nature. When compared with synthetic substitutes, the growth of cotton requires 99.9% more water. Most of the water is used in the actual growing phase of cotton production. High levels of cotton irrigation have caused the depletion of the Aral Sea, which is located in central Asia (“Synthetic Fabric”). The Aral Sea was once a place for abundant fishing which gave the area a strong economy, but once the body of water began disappearing, that area was stricken with poverty. The weather in the surrounding area has changed over time as well due to the lessening of water. In the past 20 to 30 years, the sea level has decreased by 75 percent (“Aral Sea”). Cotton irrigation creates issues like “pollution, salinization, wildlife contamination, rising water tables and habitat destruction and is less than 40% efficient.” The water that cotton irrigation sucks up depletes the soil of moisture and increases the salinity levels. Soil that is depleted by cotton irrigation systems is then unfit for proper growing and must be treated to be replenished. This takes up time and money. Runoff water from cotton irrigation contaminates local drinking water as well (“Synthetic Fabric”). The growth of cotton is undeniably dangerous to human life and the quality of the environment.
The conventional growing of cotton presents another problem: toxins. Cotton uses 24% of the world insecticides and 11% of world pesticides. Insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, growth regulators and defoliants are the five major chemicals uses in cotton production. These chemicals are washed out of the cotton in a later stage of the manufacturing process, but the fabric is then bleached with toxic chlorine. Sodium hydroxide and formaldehyde are applied to the fabric as well (“Synthetic Fabric”). Think of the chemicals being used to produce cotton and think of those chemicals being rubbed all over human skin, because that’s what happens when someone puts on a conventional cotton t-shirt. Below is a table describing the percentages of toxins involved in the lifetime of conventional cotton:
Material
93%
Production
3.50%
Transportation
1.00%
Use
2.50%
Disposal
0.00%
More than 500 gallons of water are used to grow the amount of cotton used to make one basic t-shirt. For that same shirt, 150 grams of pesticides are used to raise the cotton as well. About 25% of the dyes used on a t-shirt are washed out over its lifetime. The washing of a t-shirt also accounts for about 75% of the energy placed in the life of the garment. To be “green” when washing clothing it is best to use eco-friendly detergents instead of the traditional ones full of harmful chemicals (Pamela). Eventually this t-shirt will end up in a landfill along with over 90 million other pieces of clothing each year (“Fashion Industry Facts”).
The differences between organic cotton and conventional cotton are important to be familiar with. While conventional cotton is raised using chemicals and pesticides, organic cotton is grown without those harmful chemicals. Organic cotton is grown using plant-based fertilizers that are natural and chemical-free. Conventional cotton is dyed with bleach and with some harsh chemicals that can cause cancer. Organic cotton is not treated with these harmful chemicals. Cotton that is not organic is processed using carcinogens like formaldehyde and dioxins. Some of the chemicals used to conventional cotton are the same chemicals used to kill cockroaches. Another bonus to organic cotton is its ability to draw heat and moisture away. This makes for more comfortable clothing; the fabric is breathable. It has been found that synthetic fabrics used for sheets and bedding trap moisture beneath the fabrics. Synthetic fabrics do not breathe as well as organic fabrics and this can lead to mold growth and dust mites on something like synthetic bedding fabric. Just through a human being’s skin, 60 percent of chemicals can be absorbed. So, if a person is sleeping on organic sheets or wearing organic clothing, their health is bound to be better than a person sleeping on chemical treated sheets and clothing (“Organic Fabrics”).
The previous facts on the conventional manufacturing of cotton press the importance of producing organic cotton in its place. Organic cotton looks just like the conventionally produced cotton. This is an organic cotton t-shirt, but no one would be able to tell just by looking:
[Could not upload photo]Mr. Parsons
College Writing II
9 December 2010
Fashion’s Carbon Footprint
It may not be well-known by the general public, but the fashion industry is leaving behind a giant carbon footprint. Many people do not consider the harmful chemicals, immense use of natural resources, and the amounts of energy put into the manufacturing of textiles produced for clothing. The production processes used by the textile manufacturers have been causing great harm to the environment for decades. While many fashion labels in the world today consider themselves innovative and pioneering, there is much to be done about the environmental issues caused by the fashion industry. Decreasing the negative effect the manufacturing and producing of fabric for clothing has been brought to the attention of many fashion companies. The only industry that creates a larger carbon footprint on the earth is the agricultural industry. There is a growing effort to produce environmentally friendly textiles to be used in the fashion world.
Let’s begin with the cotton problem. Cotton is the most widely used fiber in the making of fabric. When cotton is grown conventionally it sucks up a vast amount of water from nature. When compared with synthetic substitutes, the growth of cotton requires 99.9% more water. Most of the water is used in the actual growing phase of cotton production. High levels of cotton irrigation have caused the depletion of the Aral Sea, which is located in central Asia (“Synthetic Fabric”). The Aral Sea was once a place for abundant fishing which gave the area a strong economy, but once the body of water began disappearing, that area was stricken with poverty. The weather in the surrounding area has changed over time as well due to the lessening of water. In the past 20 to 30 years, the sea level has decreased by 75 percent (“Aral Sea”). Cotton irrigation creates issues like “pollution, salinization, wildlife contamination, rising water tables and habitat destruction and is less than 40% efficient.” The water that cotton irrigation sucks up depletes the soil of moisture and increases the salinity levels. Soil that is depleted by cotton irrigation systems is then unfit for proper growing and must be treated to be replenished. This takes up time and money. Runoff water from cotton irrigation contaminates local drinking water as well (“Synthetic Fabric”). The growth of cotton is undeniably dangerous to human life and the quality of the environment.
The conventional growing of cotton presents another problem: toxins. Cotton uses 24% of the world insecticides and 11% of world pesticides. Insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, growth regulators and defoliants are the five major chemicals uses in cotton production. These chemicals are washed out of the cotton in a later stage of the manufacturing process, but the fabric is then bleached with toxic chlorine. Sodium hydroxide and formaldehyde are applied to the fabric as well (“Synthetic Fabric”). Think of the chemicals being used to produce cotton and think of those chemicals being rubbed all over human skin, because that’s what happens when someone puts on a conventional cotton t-shirt. Below is a table describing the percentages of toxins involved in the lifetime of conventional cotton:
Material
93%
Production
3.50%
Transportation
1.00%
Use
2.50%
Disposal
0.00%
More than 500 gallons of water are used to grow the amount of cotton used to make one basic t-shirt. For that same shirt, 150 grams of pesticides are used to raise the cotton as well. About 25% of the dyes used on a t-shirt are washed out over its lifetime. The washing of a t-shirt also accounts for about 75% of the energy placed in the life of the garment. To be “green” when washing clothing it is best to use eco-friendly detergents instead of the traditional ones full of harmful chemicals (Pamela). Eventually this t-shirt will end up in a landfill along with over 90 million other pieces of clothing each year (“Fashion Industry Facts”).
The differences between organic cotton and conventional cotton are important to be familiar with. While conventional cotton is raised using chemicals and pesticides, organic cotton is grown without those harmful chemicals. Organic cotton is grown using plant-based fertilizers that are natural and chemical-free. Conventional cotton is dyed with bleach and with some harsh chemicals that can cause cancer. Organic cotton is not treated with these harmful chemicals. Cotton that is not organic is processed using carcinogens like formaldehyde and dioxins. Some of the chemicals used to conventional cotton are the same chemicals used to kill cockroaches. Another bonus to organic cotton is its ability to draw heat and moisture away. This makes for more comfortable clothing; the fabric is breathable. It has been found that synthetic fabrics used for sheets and bedding trap moisture beneath the fabrics. Synthetic fabrics do not breathe as well as organic fabrics and this can lead to mold growth and dust mites on something like synthetic bedding fabric. Just through a human being’s skin, 60 percent of chemicals can be absorbed. So, if a person is sleeping on organic sheets or wearing organic clothing, their health is bound to be better than a person sleeping on chemical treated sheets and clothing (“Organic Fabrics”).
The previous facts on the conventional manufacturing of cotton press the importance of producing organic cotton in its place. Organic cotton looks just like the conventionally produced cotton. This is an organic cotton t-shirt, but no one would be able to tell just by looking:
Cotton is not the only problem with fabrics in the fashion industry. Synthetic fabrics are also a large part of the damage the fashion world is leaving behind. According to Dr. Richard Dixon, Head of the World Wildlife Federation (WWF) Scotland:
The use of man-made chemicals is increasing, and at the same time we have warning signals that a variety of wildlife and human health problems are becoming more prevalent. It is reckless to suggest there is no link between the two and give chemicals the benefit of the doubt. Urgent action is needed to replace hazardous chemicals with safer alternatives especially in clothing and other consumer products (“The 6”).
A fabric additive the WWF says to steer clear of is Teflon. Teflon is used to make clothing more durable and also wrinkle-free. The problem with an additive like Teflon is the cancer-causing perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs). Teflon is used in many uniforms that children wear daily to school. Most parents do not realize that they are sending their children off to school in clothing that could potentially bring harm to their children’s health. So, here are the top synthetic fabrics to avoid: acrylic, polyester, rayon, acetate, triacetate, nylon, and any fabric with a label that says “static-resistant”, “wrinkle-resistant”, “permanent-press”, “no-iron”, “stain-proof”, or “moth-repellant.” The safe fabrics, also known as natural fabrics, include: cotton, linen, wool, cashmere, silk, and hemp (“The 6”). Another issue with synthetic fibers, like polyester, nylon, lyocell, and rayon, is the additional energy it takes to produce these fabrics. To make these fabrics liquid solutions must be made from wood pulp and the time and energy it takes to cook and reduce the wood pulp enlarges the carbon footprint (“Fashion Industry Facts”).
“Sheep, alpaca, llamas and other wool-bearing animals contribute to the production of methane gas, a major greenhouse gas.” Greenhouse gases keep heat close to the earth and are thought to cause climate changes on the planet. This is another problem when it comes to making fabric. While these farm raised animals are producing natural fibers for fabric, the gases they produce are not healthy for the environment. Another problem fabric production causes in the atmosphere comes from tractors and trucks on farms that are fueled by non-renewable fossil fuels that release black smoke and carbon dioxide into the air which not only pollute the air, but the people breathing it (“Fashion Industry Facts”).
When it comes to transporting clothing to retail stores from the distributors who receive shipments from the manufacturing companies, there is a worldwide convoy of trucks, planes, and ships taking care of the distribution. These methods of transportation add to the pollution problems that the world is facing. A large amount of the cotton grown in the United States is shipped over to China, where the cotton is sewn into t-shirts and other garments before being shipped back to the United States. This creates a vast amount of carbon emissions and harms the air humans breathe in each day. Cheap t-shirts are provided through this method of transportation, but humans are paying a hidden price for it: their health (“Fashion Industry Facts”).
Another way that clothing harms the environment is through the average 25 washings and dryings a basic t-shirt withstands. About 60 percent of the greenhouse gases created through the lifetime of a t-shirt are produced through the washing and drying cycles. Carbon emissions emitted from the washing machine and the dryer equal more than the carbon emissions produced during the growing, manufacturing, and shipping stages combined (“Fashion Industry Facts”). Most people wash their clothes after wearing them once. Many people change their clothes throughout the day for different activities, like going to work or to the gym. These “dirty” clothes must be washed, and the large amount of energy used to clean clothes each day harms the environment.
In the year 1990, the Clean Air Act was passed by Congress. Scientists were noticing that global warming was occurring and that, as a planet, we needed to decrease carbon dioxide emissions. A trend began in the fashion industry to become more “green.” According to the New York Times, it was called “The Green Movement in the Fashion World.” Manufacturers and designers wanted to publicize to their customers that they were beginning to make changes to the environmental impact their industry was bringing to the planet. Consumers were interested in purchasing clothing that was less harmful to the environment. This started the importance of organic fabrics and the sales have continued to increase in organics since (Tortora). It is important that the manufacturing of organic fabrics continue to grow in popularity. More recently, in 2009, organic fiber sales grew 10.4 percent over the previous year (“Organic Cotton”)
A common trend recently being promoted and accepted by eco-friendly folks is the idea of recycled textiles. Recycled textiles are made from previously made fabric, which processes the old fabric into new. So instead of throwing out an old dress or t-shirt, one’s old clothing can e turned into something new. In Sweden, the label Orkan Lia has been creating new clothes out of used textiles. This brand produced one-of-a-kind garments and the clothing is then delivered to the homes of the people who order it. The purchasers of Orkan Lia clothing are receiving a quality made garment that no one else on the planet has, and they are also helping to improve the environment. This company is inspiring and should prompt others to follow in its footsteps when it comes to conserving fabrics and cleaning up the messes that the fashion industry leaves behind.While Orkan Lia is a small business, it is run in a manner that can inspire larger industry companies (Streeter).
Orkan Lia Designs: [Could not upload photo]
In New York City a campaign called GrowNYC is attempting to collect 1 million pounds of fabric including clothing and textiles to be recycled. According to the GrowNYC website, the average New Yorker throws out 46 pounds of clothing and textiles every year. That is equal to 6 percent of the entire residential waste. GrowNYC’s goal is to put landfills on a “diet.” The goal of GrowNYC: “GrowNYC’s Million Pound Challenge is calling on all New Yorkers to clean out closets and empty drawers of unwanted clothing, linens, paired shoes, bags and more.” The reason behind GrowNYC’s program is the 193,000 tons of textiles that are sent to the dumps every year from New York City alone. Donations are accepted from New Yorkers and then the items are placed into different categories. Some fabrics are reused as clothing, linens, cleaning rags, and fiber for the seats of cars and insulation (“Clothing & Textile). More programs like this should be mandatory in major cities around the United States and around the world. Think of all the fabric that could be reused instead of taking up space in a landfill. More things that a person interested in being eco-friendly or green when it comes to fashion is buying secondhand clothes, buying fewer clothes, purchasing clothes that will last for long periods of time so that the need for new clothes is less frequent (Cooper).
With all of the wasted water and space used in landfills because of clothing, and because of the damaging chemicals used in many fabrics, it is clear that there are many problems with the impact the fashion industry is having on the environment. While many steps are being taken to improve the carbon footprint left behind by the fashion and textile industries, it is important that the people of the world be informed and do whatever they can to keep the environment a safe and healthy place. Small things can add up over time, like donating clothes to a Goodwill instead of throwing them in the trash, or purchasing clothing that is made with organic fabrics instead of synthetic fabrics that have been treated with chemicals. In the end, it’s all about keeping the environment and the human population as healthy and safe as possible.
Works Cited
"The 6 Synthetic Fabrics You Most Want to Avoid, and Why." Healthy Family - Health and Wealth, Home Safety, Health, Relationship, Growing Family. 2009. Web. 09 Dec. 2010.
"ARAL SEA." EDSserver. Web. 05 Dec. 2010.
"CLOTHING & TEXTILE RECYCLING COLLECTIONS." GrowNYC. 2010. Web. 06 Dec. 2010.
Cooper, Regina. "Carbon Footprint Fashion Industry and Clothing - Terms of Interest to the Fashion Industry." Apparel Search, Search for Apparel, Fashion, Clothing, Models, News, Employment, Search Engine, Shopping, Directory, Apparelsearch, Jobs, Clothes, Fashion Industry, Clothing Industry, B2b. Web. 05 Dec. 2010.
"FASHION INDUSTRY FACTS." Eco Friendly Fashion. Web. 09 Dec. 2010.
"Organic Cotton Facts." Organic Trade Association. 17 June 2010. Web. 09 Dec. 2010.
"Organic Fabrics - Where Did They Come From?" HubPages. 2010. Web. 09 Dec. 2010.
Pamela. "21st Century Network » Wardrobe Undressed: Why the Fashion Industry Needs to Change." 21st Century Network. 15 Mar. 2010. Web. 02 Dec. 2010.
Streeter, A.K. "Google Image Result for Http://www.treehugger.com/Orkan-Lia-Sustainable-Fashion-By-Subscription.jpg." Google. 6 Jan. 2009. Web. 02 Dec. 2010.
"Synthetic Fabric vs. Natural Fabric." Synthetic Fabric vs. Natural Fabric. 2010. Web. 04 Dec. 2010.
Tortora, Phyllis G., and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume: a History of Western Dress. New York, NY: Fairchild Publications, 2010. Print.
One of the most interesting things that I learned in the paper was that a lot of the clothing we wear contains toxic chemicals. It never occurred to me that there were so many chemicals that caused cancer in the clothing that we wear such as the Teflon. Nor did I know that these chemicals provided a certain purpose in the clothing that people want. I thought it was very interesting that cotton clothing is the most popular form of clothing. But the most surprising fact that you stated was that the cotton uses so much water, it is amazing that just to make one t-shirt it contaings 500 gallons of water. That is just completely insane. Since we are trying to get the world to “go green” there should be a new found way of making cotton so that not as much water is used. That and the natural resources are all being used up all around the world that we need. She mentioned a sea that is complete dried up due to an excessive amount of cotton plants, or that is at least an assumption. I think that the use of the various examples you used in your paper helped it flow very nicely, and made it an interesting paper to read. People don’t really think about what they are actually putting on their bodies besides the cut of the fabric and the design. It’s a little scary when you think about it, that there is that amount of chemicals in the clothing we wear every day. And it is definitely a good idea that we recycle clothes so they don’t have to be made as often, but the reality of that is slim, because there are so many new styles coming out all of the time. People always want what is new, I hope they can figure out a way to use more natural products like they have been. Overall I really enjoyed reading your paper!
ReplyDeleteI believe this is a great topic for a paper and it is a big problem in the fashion industry, as well as everywhere else. Becoming green has been spreading but there is always a bigger, or better way of doing it. Usually there are efforts made but not enough to make a huge difference in the world. I believe our world should be more eco-friendly and conscience about their choices. I am not the biggest going green person around but I have thought about how our clothes are made and the damage it does to make it. I never knew that the process of making clothes would have that much of an effect on our world but I knew it had some. Your paper put it in to a better perspective for me and I hope to be even better with being green and eco-friendly when shopping for clothes as well. I never knew about the programs that take donations of old clothes and reuse them, that is a great idea and I believe you are correct, they should be mandatory in many cities. I always hear people saying they are going to get rid of a lot of clothes and normally I hear garage sale, or Good Will but I don't think I have heard someone say they are going to donate their clothes so they could be reused and made into new clothes. The topic is a great topic for the fashion world to keep making advancements and once word gets around there will be even more people involved in the idea as well. People need to be told these ideas and how harmful clothes can be to them and their family, I feel this issue is not public enough and it is hard to solve the issue of how our clothes are made and what they are made with, when many have no idea what they are putting on their bodies. I enjoyed this topic and it makes me want to do some research of my own.
ReplyDeleteWhat a great paper topic! I had absolutely no idea of the dangers that the fashion industry has had on our earth. I've always liked the green movement and I've been trying to do better things for the environment myself but it was really interesting to read the impact that the fashion industry has had on greenhouse gases and waste. Some of the most interesting facts I learned are about cotton and how much it takes to produce just one t-shirt. "More than 500 gallons of water are used to grow the amount of cotton used to make one basic t-shirt. For that same shirt, 150 grams of pesticides are used to raise the cotton as well." I can't believe how much water is wasted for a shirt that's going to be worn for a few years and then pitched. Not to mention to produce it, sent to have it sewn then sent to stores. So much carbon emissions for one piece of clothing! I like the idea of GrowNYC program and that designers are recycling clothes to make new pieces. It's chic and eco-friendly, the best of both worlds for sure. I have a great respect for people like Emma Watson who have come out with their own environmentally-friendly clothing lines, it's all gotta start somewhere, might as well be something that we wear everyday. Now I feel like I have to check the tags of all my clothes and make sure I'm not wearing harmful clothes!
ReplyDeleteThis was an interesting paper that had a lot of points in it that were completely new to me. I had no idea that so many chemicals remained in cotton after it was manufactured. The paper said that the chemicals were washed out later, but I can’t help but wonder about the workers who have to handle and pick the cotton before it is cleaned. The paper that I was assigned to comment about before this one was about sweatshops, so I can’t help but think about the workers. Since the growth often takes place around the Aral Sea which is in Asia, it’s unlikely that their workers are given adequate protection so they might face health problems later in life if they do that kind of work for a long period of time.
ReplyDeleteI also found it interesting that so much water was used in cotton growth. I didn’t know cotton was such a thirsty plant and I also thought it was interesting that cotton growers are draining their nearby sea to grow the cotton. The government of whatever country controls that area is probably in a tough position because they rely on cotton sales as an important part of their economy. They know that they are losing their sea and that it could have very negative effects on them, but they are probably afraid to make the cotton growers stop using the sea for fear of losing their important industry.
I am glad to see that there are groups that are taking old clothing items and recycling or redistributing them, although I believe that having government make it mandatory is a terrible Pandora’s Box that should never be opened. Overall the paper was laid out well and properly cited, with a nice mix of parenthetical and quoted citations. It was also very grammatically correct, which makes it a great paper in my book.